Guidebooks Errata Page
Listed below are some of the main errors that have been discovered in my guidebooks to the Andes. This is just a short list of actual mistakes and major changes.. In towns and cities new shops open up and old ones close, and everything gets more expensive - these type of changes will be incorporated in the next editions of the books. Basic grammar and spelling mistakes are not listed, unless they interfere with understanding
The Andes - A Guide for Climbers & Skiers - 5th Edition (Paperback & E-book)
The Andes - A Guide for Climbers - 4th edition (Paperback)
Paperback ISBN 978-0-9536087-6-8
Errata for the 5th edition will be added here when they are discovered. The paper guidebook was published in February 2020, the E-book in June 2021.
p. 7 - In the table of grades, the 6th entry down in the "French" column should read 5+
p. 88 - Huascarán Sur. A new survey recently seen by the author suggests the height may be 6757m, this would make it the 5th highest in the Andes (paper edition only).
p. 234 - El Fraile Climb. 3rd/4th line. Should read "from a high camp at about 5000-5100m on the NE side in Chile". Not NW (paper edition only).
p.252 - Mountain Info in Mendoza. Line 16. The Orviz address should be J.B. Justo 532 (as correctly stated lower down on the same page (paper edition only).
p.333 - Bonete Norte I (Pioneros). I have new information that this peak was climbed by an Italian/Argentine group in 2002.
Paperback ISBN 978-0-9536087-4-4
Errata for the 4th edition will be added here when they are discovered. The guidebook was published in March 2015.
p. 41 -- Pico Colon -- This peak has been notoriously hard to get permission to ascend for many years. However it was climbed by the author in December 2015. The approach was from Palmor to the west and took 6 days, with a couple of days to climb the peak and four days to walk back out. The ascent itself was made by the NW glacier couloir to the La Horqueta col and then easily up the SW ridge. Grade for Colon was PD, with a 60m pitch of 45º snow to gain the col. Bolivar looked quite a bit harder, certainly AD and with a lot of steep exposed snow. The summit height of Colon was c.5730m on the GPS. Bolivar is probably the same height plus or minus a few metres only. The picture below shows Pico Bolivar from just below the summit of Pico Colon.
p.80 -- The main Caraz peak, Oeste, was downsized to c.5980m following photographic studies (also the lack of a 6000m contour on the PIGM maps). It's height is 6025m on the DAV map. Caraz Este is a lower peak, so it's height should be about 5975m (not 6020m as stated).
Solimana -- A better start is from the new road (easy 4x4) to the N of the peak, parking at 15º19'46" 72º54'05"
p.182 & 183 -- Hualca Hualca -- the grade to the summit is just F in most conditions.
p.186 -- CHACHANI -- A new route up the N slopes is now more commonly used, and will certainly be better if there is much snow on the peak. Drive to a 4x4 base camp at 5050m in a col N of the peak, from here walk W (almost level) for 1½h. to an advance base camp beneath the N side of the peak. Then easily up a good zig-zag footpath to the summit, normally only a little snow at 5900m+. KEY WAYPOINTS Parking 16º10'03" 71º30'45" Advance Base 16º10'38" 71º31'52" 5800m 16º11'21" 71º32'10" Summit 16º11'43" 71º31'55"
This diagram shows Chachani from the North, and the new route on the NW slopes.
There are more photos of the new route on our Chachani information page
p.188 -- Pichu Pichu -- there is now a 4x4 track down the east side of the peak to a small parking area at 4580m at 16º25'23" 71º12'36"
p.221 -- Puntiagudo -- the height should read 5940m.
p. 249 -- Aconcagua -- The permit system has changed slightly again. There are more or less the same requirements as before, but you now have to go through one of 8 or 10 approved operators to obtain your permit. The cost in the 2015-16 season was $720 to $945, low or high season.
p.314 -- It was of course Maestri who made the claims about the first ascent of Cerro Torre, Toni Egger unfortunately died on the mountain.
p.329 -- The Next Ten -- Tocllaraju c.5980m and Caraz c.5980m should be in this list, at least if their newly estimated (lower) heights are correct. See above for more details.
E-book ISBN 978-0-9536087-5-1
Also published as individual chapter E-books, with ISBN's 978-0-9934387-?-?
Errata for the E-book will be added here when they are discovered. The guidebook was published in November 2015.
The Chichicapac and Cunurana diagrams got transposed. Everything is correct, they are just not in the best places and you may have to scroll up or down a bit!
Solimana --- A better start is from the new road (easy 4x4) to the N of the peak, parking at 15º19'46" 72º54'05"
Hualca Hualca -- the grade to the summit is just F in most conditions.
Pichu Pichu --- there is now a 4x4 track down the east side of the peak to small parking area at 4580m at 16º25'23" 71º12'36"
PUNA DE ATACAMA
Tres Cruces --- Puntiagudo -- the height should read 5940m.
THE HIGH ANDES
Aconcagua -- The permit system has changed slightly again, ore or less the same requirements as before, but you now have to go through one of 8 or 10 approved operators to obtain your permit. The cost in the 2015-16 season was $720 to $945, low or high season.
PATAGONIA AND TIERRA DEL FUEGO
Cerro Torre --- It was of course Maestri who made the claims about the first ascent of Cerro Torre, Toni Egger unfortunately died on the mountain.
We've had feedback on nearly all the treks since the book was published (except for the Colombian ones) and only the following points have been brought to our attention.
Venezuela - page 27 - it is no longer advisable to walk between the 1st and 2nd cable car stations as the route is now severely overgrown. Other sections of the cable car walk are fine.
- page 27 - 6th line from bottom of page - "Laguna Mucubaji" should read "Laguna Negra"
- page 30 - Note that as of January 2009 the Merida Teleferico is permanently closed. There are rumours that a new one will be built by November 2013, but for the time being Bolivar will take 6-8 days to climb, from La Mucuy.
Colca Canyon - page 86 - the route above Choco is very hard to find, probably best to take a local guide to show you the way.
Illampu Circuit - page 93 - problems with bandits near Laguna San Francisco are now much worse - seek local and up to date advice before proceeding.
Pomerape Circuit - page 107 - there is a minefield on the South side of the lake on the Chilean side of the border - so take care and walk around the North side of the lake!