 |
Dates |
28th February - 14th March 2016 (to 22nd March with Ojos extension) |
| Duration | 16 days | |
| Grade | 1C | |
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"Andes" Leadership Fee
(includes leaders expenses) £ 1995 |
||
Easy Mountaineering in Argentina with option to climb Ojos del Salado
The title picture is of the 6046m high peak lying northeast of Medusa, which turned out to be an unclimbed 6000m peak. when an ANDES expedition made the first ascent of this peak in January 2010.
FULL
PRICES & COSTS
All are per person.
"Andes" Leadership Fee (includes leaders expenses) -- £ 1995
Estimated Airfares -- £1000
Estimated Trek & Travel Costs in Argentina -- £400
Estimated Accommodation & Meals -- £300
ESTIMATED TOTAL COST per person -- £ 3700
INTRODUCTION
In January 2010 and December 2011 we made a number of first ascents of 6000m peaks in the high Andes of the Puna de Atacama, as reported in the Alpine Journal and American Alpine Journal 2012 (see bottom of page for extract). These were very successful expeditions with many clients making many summits, so we are heading back to the same general area in March 2016 -- but obviously to two different (probably) unclimbed summits. This is an area of the Andes we now know exceptionally well, having run many successful trips in the past twenty years and the specific peaks we plan to climb was researched on the ground by John Biggar in February 2015. The Puna de Atacama is a great area for seeing wildlife - on our December 2011 trip we saw many condors, vicuñas, guanacos, an armadillo and we even had a great view of a puma.
We will again be based in the remote Puna de Atacama of northwest Argentina, flying into and out of the city of Catamarca. The itinerary will include climbs of two unclimbed peaks in the 5500-6000m range. Both ascents will take about 2 or 3 days from roadheads at about 4000-4500m. We'll have private transport, probably a 4x4, for getting around between the peaks. Research on the internet and in all the regular mountaineering journals shows no indication that either of these peaks has been climbed previously, but we can't guarantee this. However we have certainly picked good target peaks for First Ascents many times in the past (see our Firsts page for further details).
We are offering an optional extension to climb Ojos del Salado at the end of this expedition. Ojos del Salado is a 6893m high peak that is the worlds highest volcano. It lies on the Chile-Argentina border and for ease of access we will climb from the Chilean side. This extension will be 8 days long including travel time and a rest day. For more details scroll down or click here.
We may have time on either the main expedition and/or on the Ojos del Salado extension to do one other major 6000m peak. If it becomes possible due to good weather and/or logistics we will certainly do this.
Like most of the peaks in this part of the Andes these first ascents are not expected to involve any technical climbing. They will be simple walks over rough ground and perhaps some boulders. The ascents on this expedition are suitable for strong hillwalkers, although previous expedition experience is preferred due to the possibility of tough weather and camping conditions. Please call or email if you have any questions about the suitability of this trip for you.
Outline Itinerary |
|
| Days 1-2 | Flight via Buenos Aires to Catamarca |
| Day 3 | Travel to Antofagasta de la Sierra |
| Days 4-6 | Acclimatisation around Antofagasta |
| Days 7-10 | First unclimbed peak ascent |
| Days 11-13 | Second major ascent c.5800-6000m |
| Day 14 | Travel back to Catamarca |
| Days 15-16 | Fly home |
| OPTIONAL EXTENSION | |
| Days 15-16 | Travel and rest day |
| Days 17-21 | Ojos del Salado mountain trip |
| Days 22-24 | Return to Catamarca and fly home |
Our main target peak from the south...... bigger than it looks!
FURTHER INFORMATION SHEET
A few months before departure we will post out a further information sheet to all paid up clients. This information sheet will have a few more details of the peaks we are planning to climb, and an outline of the overall itinerary. Clearly we don't want this information to be widely available at an early date as there would then be a risk of someone else climbing "our" unclimbed peaks first! Please phone the office if you'd like to discuss the nature of the peaks we plan to climb, or the trip in general, or just want some more clues about what will be involved before booking.
THE PUNA DE ATACAMA
The plateau of the Puna de Atacama lies on the border between Chile and Argentina and includes a huge area over 4000m above sea level. There are still many unclimbed peaks of over 5000m in this remote area. although it is always hard to be completely certain because many of the peaks in the area were climbed at the time of the Inca empire, when the mountains were worshipped as gods by the inhabitants and were frequently ascended in order to make sacrifices. The Puna is one of the most beautiful and haunting places in the Andes, compared by many to the high plateau of Tibet. The scenery is a bit desolate for some, but the huge open spaces, clear air and big blue skies leave a deep impression on everyone who visits this area.
CATAMARCA
Catamarca is a pleasant regional city in north-western Argentina, and is the nearest place to the mountains that it is possible to fly to. There are flights most days direct from Buenos Aires, although a change of airport in Buenos Aires is necessary. We'll be based in a hotel in this city for the first and last nights of the expedition. The main plaza is just near the hotel we use and there are a number of nice restaurants there. It is usually hot in Catamarca, 30ºC is common and even 40ºC is not unusual.
ANTOFAGASTA DE LA SIERRA
We'll start the trip with a few days based in and around the wee town of Antofagsta de la Sierra, at a height of about 3500m. This town is a 5 or 6 hour drive from the city of Catamarca. We'll be based in a hotel whilst here. There is some beautiful scenery in the local area, with lava flows, lagoons and little volcanic cinder cones. It is also a good area to see some wildlife, with birds like flamingos (pictured below) and rheas both common in the immediate area. While we are here we will do a couple of shorter acclimatisation walks, and aim to climb a hill about 4000-4200m high.
OJOS DEL SALADO (6893m) EXTENSION
We are offering an optional extension with this expedition to climb Ojos del Salado.
At 6893m Ojos del Salado is the second highest peak in the Andes and the
worlds highest volcano. It lies on the border with Chile and for ease of
access we will in fact climb it from the Chilean side. Before travelling to Ojos we'll have a rest day
in and around the wee village of Fiambala in Argentina. This extension will be a
further five day mountain trip after the rest day, and gives a 24 day itinerary
overall, running from 28th February to 22nd March. The cost for this extension is £795, plus estimated additional
hotel and travel costs of £200-£300. We'll need a minimum of two clients interested to be
able to guarantee to run this extension.
Ojos del Salado is mainly a walking peak, with the summit being one long day
from a high camp by a refuge at 5900m. However there is a short pitch of rock
climbing just below the summit, about UK grade Mod or Diff or Alpine PD, for
which a harness and helmet are necessary. The steepest part of this climb is pictured below.
The Chilean side of Ojos del Salado from the main international road.
FITNESS & EXPERIENCE NEEDED
Although there is no difficult
climbing involved in the ascents planned on the main expedition, climbing to
heights of over 5500m is still a serious matter because of the lack of oxygen at high
altitude. We will allow plenty of time for expedition members to acclimatise to
the altitude but because of the nature of the expedition we recommend clients to
have previous successful experience at altitudes of 5000m+.
On the optional Ojos del Salado extension some previous experience of roped
scrambling or rock climbing, including abseiling, will be very useful, but it is not essential. We
can look after you on the short bit of technical terrain.
For this expedition good mountain fitness for long days is important, but for high altitude expeditions clients also need good cardiopulmonary (heart and lung) fitness. This can only be maintained, by a program of intensive exercise such as sprinting (not jogging), squash or sprint cycling. This should be done in small doses (e.g. half an hour every other day) over a period of at least two months
Clients should be prepared for cold nights camping and be prepared for very windy and dusty weather at times out in the mountains. As we'll be several days from the nearest supermarket there will be some tinned and dehydrated food in our diet during our time in the mountains. All clients are expected to help with the routine work of this type of expedition; pitching tents, cooking and washing up. Above base camp in the mountains we will be unsupported and therefore will have to carry expedition weight (20kg) rucksacks uphill for a half-day or so to establish high camps on the mountains, so some recent experience of backpacking is essential.
CLIMATE
The climate at altitude in the Puna de Atacama is very cold and extremely dry. In the mountains temperatures can fall to -20ºC at night. During the day in the mountains it can feel very warm in the strong sun, but it can also be bitterly cold and windy. It will probably be dry all the time we are in South America, although there is a chance of thunderstorms and/or a snow flurry in the mountains on a few days. As we are near the tropics come prepared for 10 or 11 hours of darkness every night. Temperatures in the city of Catamarca, in Fiambala and in other low lying areas will be a very pleasant 30-35ºC during the day.
ORGANISATION & LEADERSHIP
Our expeditions are designed to be small and flexible. The expedition will be co-ordinated, organised and lead by us, but we will consult and involve the expedition members when planning the details of the trip. Please note however that the leaders decision is final where the safety of the group or any member is in jeopardy; for example where retreat or diversion is necessary due to illness or bad weather. The minimum number of customers we need to run this expedition is three. The maximum size of the expedition will be four customers plus leader.
Acclimatisation camp at 3500m in the Puna de Atacama, November 2011. We saw a Puma near here the next day.
INSURANCE, HEALTH & SECURITY
All clients must be insured for medical costs and repatriation in an emergency. We recommend having insurance for baggage, personal liability and cancellation as well. If you would like advice on insurance please ask. Please bring an extra copy of your insurance certificate on the expedition for the leader. Vaccinations for tetanus, typhoid and polio are recommended. Argentina is one of the most well developed countries in South America and in rural areas crime rates are very low. The country is very safe and relaxing to travel in; theft and muggings are as unlikely as they are in most British cities.
SAFETY AND RISK
This is an adventurous mountain trip and
all clients will be exposed to an element of risk by taking part in this
itinerary. While we take all reasonable precautions to reduce risk it is neither
possible nor desirable to completely eliminate these additional risks. It is
important that you understand the risks involved before signing our booking
form. We have identified the following areas as the principal additional risks
of this itinerary. This is not a fully inclusive list - please ask if you would
like to see a more detailed risk assessment of this itinerary before booking.
Driving, hotels and general
safety : In Argentina and Chile driving standards, fire safety standards and general safety standards are
not as high as in Europe.
Extreme remoteness : You will be
camping in a remote area, up to a days walk from the nearest road, for an extended period
of time. Therefore obtaining
medical assistance for any problem will be a slow process.
Minor slips and falls : due to
steep, uneven and unstable ground.
Weather : The Puna de Atacama is
occasionally affected by severe and sometimes dangerous thunderstorms and
occasional seasonal heavy snowfalls. Forecasts are
not so reliable.
Altitude : At high altitudes there is an increased risk of
medical problems, most obviously altitude illness.
Mountain Hazards : In certain places you may be subjected to
a slight risk of slips and trips. On the optional Ojos del Salado extension
there are risks from the use of rope and harnesses at high altitude, and a small
risk of rockfall.
Extract from the American Alpine Journal 2012, detailing our extremely successful November 2011 "First Ascents" expedition to the Puna de Atacama in Argentina.
