Sajama and Illimani Dossier
Mountaineering in Bolivia
For dates and prices please return to the Sajama and Illimani 'front page'
SummaryAn expedition with a good combination of culture and adventure, combining interesting ascents over 6000m, with great scenery and travel in one of the most fascinating countries of the Andes. |
Outline Itinerary |
|
| Day 1-2 | Flight to La Paz |
| Day 3-5 | Sightseeing in and around La Paz |
| Day 6-10 | Acclimatisation climbs |
| Day 11 | Rest in La Paz |
| Day 12-16 | Illimani ascent |
| Day 17 | Rest in La Paz |
| Day 18-22 | Sajama or other ascent option |
| Day 23-24 | Return to La Paz and home |
Church bell, Sajama village
INTRODUCTION TO THIS EXPEDITION
Bolivia is one of the most interesting and enjoyable destinations for a climbing trip to the Andes. This expedition will attempt Illimani 6438m, the highest peak in the Cordillera Real and Sajama 6542m the highest peak in Bolivia.
Before going to these giant peaks we will run a short acclimatisation trip to an area of the Cordillera Real near La Paz. There will be a chance to make one or two ascents to over 5000m for those who are well acclimatised on this preliminary trip.
The ascent of Illimani, which lies near La Paz, will take 5 days with a spectacular high camp above the glaciers. The mountain is usually an easy snow climb but in some years there can be problems crossing the big crevasses. We will then travel to the village of Sajama in the remote western desert and climb this straightforward 6542m extinct volcano with a high camp at 5800m. Again the climbing is normally straightforward but with the possibility of a harder pitch of 40? ice.
We can also offer an option to climb a lower but more technical peak instead of Sajama. Possible choices include Condoriri 5648m a beautifully shaped peak, often called the 'Matterhorn of Bolivia? and Ancohuma a giant of 6427m at the northern end of the Cordillera Real. We require minimum numbers to offer these options at a good price.
The expedition will be based in La Paz and we'll spend the first few days in and around this fascinating city until we get used to the thin air. During this time in La Paz we will arrange some optional sightseeing trips, including the pre-Inca ruins of Tiahuanaco and Lake Titicaca.
Ancohuma seen from Lago Titicaca
LA PAZ
La Paz is the capital of Bolivia and the world's highest capital city. With a population of about one million it is still a relatively small city. The nearby mountains provide fresh air and the city has an agreeable climate. It gets warm in the sun during the day but, because of the altitude, quite cold every night.
The main business district with its modern skyscrapers is set at about 3700m in the bottom of a canyon. The city stretches up and down the canyon from here; the rich live in the suburb of La Florida; the poorest people live on the steep sides of the canyon and in the district of El Alto at over 4100m above sea level.
There are many fascinating things to see in this unusual city. Steep cobbled streets wind through colourful markets where almost everything is on sale: alpaca jumpers, hundreds of kinds of potato, plastic buckets, car batteries and coca leaves. There are also all the regular things to do and see in a capital city; there are some beautiful churches and colonial buildings and museums showing artefacts from the Inca civilisation and many other previous civilisations.
TIAHUANACO AND LAGO TITICACA
The ruins of Tiahuanaco make an interesting short day trip from La Paz which those who are interested can take during our first days in the city. The ruins are from several different civilisations preceding the Incas; the site was first used almost three thousand years ago. There are many compounds and much terracing to be seen as well as a few giant monolithic stone carvings and an impressive gateway. As it is optional the cost of this tour is not included in our price.
Also possible is a full day tour to Lago Titicaca, famous as the world's highest navigable lake and certainly one of the most beautiful. The waters are clear and blue and there are fine views to the snow capped mountains of the northern Cordillera Real. You can take a short boat cruise on the lake to see some of the fishing boats and islands and have trout for lunch (this is unavoidable when you go to Lago Titicaca). Since this tour is also optional the cost is not included in our price.
ACCLIMATISATION TRIP
After a couple of days in La Paz we'll do a short mountain trip for acclimatisation purposes in the area around the Khara Khota valley. This high valley is only two hours drive from the suburbs of La Paz and is easily reached. There are several peaks of about 5000m including Janco Huyo, Huarahuarani and Janco Laya, one or two of which we will climb when expedition members are well enough acclimatised.
There are llama and alpaca pastures in the valley and a few small settlements. There are several stunning campsites by high mountain lagoons; good places to relax and enjoy the scenery after a long day.
Illimani as seen from La Paz
ILLIMANI
Our first big ascent will be a five day trip to the mountain Illimani which dominates the La Paz skyline. At 6438m it is claimed as the highest peak in the Cordillera Real. There are three peaks and many glacier filled valleys giving superb views. From the base of the mountain at Puente Roto we'll take a day to climb up to the high camp of 'Nido de Condores' (5500m) from where we will ascend the higher south summit. From the camp the views of the ice falls on the mountain are superb. The long summit day is a climb on snow and ice with a couple of pitches to 40?. It used to be quite difficult but it has become a little more straightforward in recent years.
Camp beneath Sajama in western Bolivia
NEVADO SAJAMA
After Illimani our main expedition will go to the massive Nevado Sajama 6542m, which rises in splendid isolation high above the western deserts of Bolivia and can be seen prominently from many miles away. It is a long and dusty drive to the village of Sajama where the normal route on the west flanks starts. A days walk with donkeys and then porters takes us to a high camp at 5800m, from where we'll make the ascent to the summit in one long day. The peaks total isolation gives an incredible sense of height on the summit.
CONDORIRI OPTION Grade 4B
Condoriri, 5648m is a beautiful snow and rock pyramid which is usually climbed in 3-4 days from the end of the road at Estancia Tuni. We are offering this option for anyone who wants to climb something a bit more technical after the ascent of Illimani. The first day will be a walk into the base camp by Laguna Chiar Kota at 4700m. The peak is usually climbed in one day from here. The climb starts as an easy ascent over glaciers, then there is a short ice gully followed by the magnificently exposed, and sometimes icy, summit ridge. We will also have time to climb one or two of the other peaks in the area from the same base camp.
Trekking towards Condoriri
ANCOHUMA OPTION Grade 3B
Another possible option on this expedition is a trip to Ancohuma, 6427m at the northern end of the Cordillera Real. The peak is usually a little more technical than Illimani, but not particularly difficult. It can either be climbed in place of Sajama or as an add-on to the full expedition, taking an extra six days in total.
HARDSHIPS
On this type of expedition there are inevitably some hardships which clients must be prepared to face in return for the great rewards of climbing such high mountains. Cold nights, cold washing water and some tinned and dried food in our diet are a few of the experiences which will have to be enjoyed or endured.
CLIMATE
This expedition is scheduled during the dry season in the Bolivian Andes and we can expect long periods of stable weather. There are sometimes high winds and light snow flurries. Though we travel in winter in Bolivia it normally feels pleasantly warm in the strong sunshine during the day. At night temperatures at altitude go down to -15?C during the 12 hours of darkness, so bring a warm sleeping bag and a good book!
Illimani summit from the high camp at 5600m
FITNESS AND EXPERIENCE NECESSARY
Ascents to over 6000m require considerable fitness. Good hillwalking and mountaineering fitness is obviously important, but is not enough on its own. For high altitude expeditions clients particularly need good cardiopulmonary fitness. This can only be maintained, or obtained, by a program of intensive exercise such as sprinting, circuit training, squash or sprint cycling. This should be done in small doses over a period of at least three months (e.g. half an hour every other day). If you don?t do this sort of exercise you are not likely to make it to the summit.
SAJAMA AND ILLIMANI Clients must be experienced winter or alpine hillwalkers with experience of using ice-axe and crampons. Previous winter or alpine climbing experience at the easiest grades (Alpine PD or Scottish Grade I) is strongly recommended.
CONDORIRI OPTION Clients must have previous winter climbing or alpine snow and ice experience to about Scottish grade III or alpine AD and be competent using ropes.
ANCOHUMA OPTION Clients must have previous winter climbing or alpine snow and ice experience to about Scottish grade II or alpine PD/AD and be competent using ropes. Ancohuma is a big ascent with many long days, so a very high standard of fitness is needed.
The summit of Illimani
FLIGHTS
Flights from London to La Paz the Bolivian capital cost from about £800. We arrange these for you through our travel agents, Journey Latin America (ATOL 2828), at very competitive prices. We make no charge for this service and many customers find it convenient as we are then all booked to fly out on the same plane. If you prefer you can arrange your own flights to fit in with the expedition itinerary. Please note that if booking flights yourself it is better to pay only a deposit in the short term in case we do not have sufficient fully paid customers to run the expedition.
VISAS
Visas are not necessary for British citizens, but you should have a full passport valid for at least six months from the date of travel. You must let us know at the time of booking if you will not be travelling on a British passport as you may need a visa.
HEALTH AND HYGIENE
Bolivia is one of the poorest countries in South America and hygiene standards reflect this. Even with a bit of caution you're likely to get an upset stomach or gut at some stage. It is a good idea to avoid tap water, unwashed fruit, ice and all seafood as there has been cholera in Bolivia and neighbouring Peru for several years now. Vaccinations for tetanus, typhoid, polio and hepatitis are needed! Your doctor may also recommend injections for rabies and diphtheria. Malaria and yellow fever precautions are not necessary as we won't be visiting mosquito infested areas.
SAFETY AND RISK
This is an adventure holiday and all clients will be exposed to an element of risk by taking part in this itinerary. While we take all reasonable precautions to reduce risk it is neither possible nor desirable to completely eliminate these additional risks. It is important that you understand the risks involved before signing our booking form. We have identified the following areas as the principal additional risks of this itinerary. This is not a fully inclusive list - please ask if you would like to see a more detailed risk assessment of this itinerary before booking.
Crime : Bolivia has a higher crime rate than Europe. As a wealthy tourist you may attract attention.
Driving, hotels and general safety : In Bolivia driving, health, fire safety standards and general safety standards are not as high as in Europe.
Remoteness : You will be several days from professional medical help for much of the time.
Minor slips and falls : due to steep, uneven and unstable ground.
Weather : The mountains are occasionally affected by cloudy weather making navigation and possibly descent, difficult. Forecasts are not reliable.
Mountain Hazards : On all the peaks there is a significant risk of avalanche and crevasse falls. In certain places you may be subjected to a slight risk of rockfall. Most of the peaks also involve short sections of technical climbing and therefore the usual hazards associated with climbing and abseiling.
Altitude : At high altitudes there is an increased risk of medical problems, most obviously altitude illness. On this expedition this is more serious because it may not be possible to descend in bad weather, poor conditions, or at night.
Approaching the summit of Sajama on the first ever 'Andes' expedition back in 1992.
INSURANCE
All clients must be insured for medical costs and repatriation in an emergency. We recommend having insurance for baggage, personal liability and cancellation as well. If you would like advice on insurance please ask.
ACCOMMODATION
While we're in La Paz we use a clean and secure hotel, with hot showers and all the other comforts of home. It will be possible to leave extra luggage and clean clothes here whenever we go off to the mountains. In the village of Sajama we stay in very primitive (but clean) accommodation - it's all there is in these remote parts of the world. We will be camping when we are out in the mountains; modern lightweight tents and stoves are provided by us, but you'll need your own four or five season sleeping bag and mat.
EXPEDITION ORGANISATION
Our expeditions are designed to be small and flexible. The expedition will be co-ordinated, organised and led by us, but we'll consult and involve the expedition members when planning the details of the trip. Please note however that the leaders decision is final where the safety of the group or any member is in jeopardy; for example where retreat or diversion is necessary due to illness or bad weather.
EXPEDITION LEADER
At the time of printing we have not chosen the leader for this expedition. All our expeditions are normally led by a suitably qualified and/or experienced European (normally British) leader. Please call for further details.
EXPEDITION SIZE
The minimum number of customers we need to run this expedition is three. The maximum size of the expeditions will be six customers plus leader. We may need a minimum of four customers booked on the expedition to be able to offer the Condoriri or Ancohuma options. In some circumstances we may be able to run the expedition with just two members and a local leader.
PRE EXPEDITION WEEKEND
We will be running social and training weekend for these expeditions, probably in the Cairngorms in early 2006 if there are enough clients interested. Expedition members are usually able to meet both their leader and other members. We make only a small charge for these weekends. Please ask for details if you are interested.
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