Mexican Volcanoes Dossier
Easy Mountaineering in Mexico
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SummaryAn ideal first expedition to climb snow capped peaks of over 5000m, with good scenery, easy climbing and a fascinating country. Just don't expect good Mexican food! |
Outline Itinerary |
|
| Day 1 | Flight to Mexico City |
| Day 2-3 | Excursions in and around Mexico City |
| Day 4-6 | Nevado de Toluca |
| Day 7-10 | Popocatepetl and Ixtaccihuatl |
| Day 11 | Rest in the town of Amecameca |
| Day 12-14 | Orizaba ascent |
| Day 15-16 | Travel Home |
INTRODUCTION TO THIS EXPEDITION
Based in and around Mexico City this expedition will climb the four highest summits in the country. After a day of acclimatisation in Mexico City at 2250m we will make a three day trip to the rocky Nevado de Toluca 4691m. Returning briefly to Mexico City we'll travel to our first two big peaks which rise high above the capital to the southeast. Popocatepetl 5452m and Ixtaccihuatl 5286m are both volcanic peaks. Popocatepetl, an active volcano, is a relatively easy walk over snow but the ascent of Ixtaccihuatl is a more challenging scramble.
After climbing these peaks we'll travel east to the small city of Orizaba to climb our third and highest peak - Pico de Orizaba 5760m also known by the Aztec name of Citlatepetl. This mountain is steeper than our first two summits but is still a suitable ascent for those with little or no previous experience on snow and ice.
During the acclimatisation phase of the expedition there will be time to see some of the most interesting sights around Mexico City. The modern capital of Mexico was the ancient capital of the Aztec Empire, which reached its peak of power about the time of Columbus' voyages. There are still many impressive ruins in the area including the famous pyramids at Teotihuacan, whose Pyramid of the Sun is over 70m high (and will make an ideal first ascent!)
MEXICO CITY
Mexico City is one of the worlds biggest cities. We'll spend a day in this huge and fascinating city both at the start and at the end of the expedition. The city is at 2250m and this makes a good base for the purposes of acclimatisation. Mexico City was founded by the Spanish conquistadors on the site of the Aztec's capital of Tenochtitlan and was the capital of their empire in the New World. Today it is the capital and by far the most important city in the Republic of Mexico. It is a sprawling modern city but in the compact central area there is an attractive mixture of Spanish colonial architecture and modern glass fronted skyscrapers. There is plenty to see in the streets of the city centre and there are also world famous churches, art galleries and museums to visit. For those who want to escape the bustle there is the huge Chapultepec park.

Pyramid of the Moon from the Pyramid of the Sun, near Mexico City
SIGHTS NEAR MEXICO CITY
The expedition will start and finish in Mexico City and there will be time to explore the city and surrounding area on these days. Because they are optional the cost of any sightseeing tours taken from Mexico City are not included in our price. Your leader will be happy to help organise any you are interested in taking.
By far the most worthwhile sight are the impressive ruins of the ancient city of Teotihuacan, including the pyramids of the Sun and Moon. The Pyramid of the Sun is one of the world's largest pyramids. Teotihuacan is about 50km northeast of Mexico City and dates from about 150AD. It was a very large city at that time with perhaps 200,000 inhabitants. The Aztecs, whose empire only developed over 1000 years, later treated the site of Teotihuacan as a shrine. Today the ruins cover a huge area of 20 square kilometres and it is easy to spend the best part of day here. There are ornately decorated stone temples and other municipal buildings to see.
The floating gardens at Xochimilco, the Templo Mayor in the city centre and the Toltec temples at Tula with its giant stone warriors are other sights well worth seeing in and around the city.
Popocatepetl
POPOCATEPETL
Popocatepetl, 5452m is an active volcano with a spectacular crater at the summit. The volcano has been intermittently active throughout the 1990's and ascents are often not permitted by the authorities. Popocatepetl is only 50km from Mexico City and on clear days there is a beautiful view of it and its twin peak Ixtaccihuatl from the outskirts of Mexico City. If the mountain is open we'll climb Popocatepetl by the normal route on the north side of the mountain from Tlamacas above the Paso de Cortes. The ascent takes one long day from the Tlamacas huts to the crater rim. The ascent is generally an easy walk over scree and snow slopes.
IXTACCIHUATL
Ixtaccihuatl 5286m is an extinct volcano lying just 25km north of Popocatepetl. After climbing Popocatepetl we'll climb Ixtaccihuatl by the Ayoloco glacier route. This starts at La Joya to the south of the mountain and will also take us one long day, though there is an option to stay at a hut as well. As with all the big summits in Mexico the route on Ixtaccihuatl is a mixture of climbing on scree, snow and rock. It is a little more tricky than the ascent of Popocatepetl.
We've allowed an extra day in our schedule for Popocatepetl and Ixtaccihuatl in case bad weather or poor acclimatisation slows us up.

ORIZABA
The remote Pico de Orizaba (pictured above) is the highest peak in Mexico and reaches 5760m. It is a glaciated volcano lying about 200km west of Mexico City. We will climb by the normal route on the Jamapa glacier on the north slopes of the mountain from the huts at Piedra Grande (4260m). From here the summit is one long day of climbing over rock and scree then the snow slopes of the Jamapa glacier. Orizaba is a bit steeper than the other volcanoes but still an easy ascent.
Nevado de Toluca
NEVADO DE TOLUCA
As a warm up before tackling the three highest peaks we'll climb Nevado de Toluca, 4691m. This peak lies east of Mexico City and is easily climbed in one day as there is a road to the two crater lakes at about 4200m. The peak is a blown out crater with only the rocky rim remaining. The ascent from these lakes to the highest point of the crater rim, known as Pico del Fraile, is a rock scramble in normal conditions.
AMECAMECA
Between our ascent of Ixtaccihuatl and Orizaba we'll have a rest day. This will probably be taken in the small town of Amecameca near the foot of Popocatepetl.
Ixtaccihuatl from the camp at La Joya
CLIMATE
We will be climbing in Mexico at the start of the dry season and can expect mostly pleasant sunny weather. However we may be unlucky and experience a short period of stormy weather. The Mexican volcanoes are very big mountains and it may be quite cold and windy on summit days. At night and at altitude temperatures are normally low, going down to below freezing high on the mountains, so bring a warm sleeping bag for the huts and camps!
FITNESS AND EXPERIENCE REQUIRED
Clients should be experienced hillwalkers or trekkers. Some experience of winter walking and use of an ice axe would be an advantage but is not essential. Ascents to over 5000m require a good level of fitness. Good hillwalking and mountaineering fitness is obviously important, but for high altitude expeditions clients should have good cardiopulmonary fitness too. This can only be maintained, or obtained, by a program of exercise such as sprinting (not jogging), squash or sprint cycling. This should be done in small doses over a period of at least two months (e.g. half an hour every other day).
EXPEDITION ORGANISATION
Our expeditions are designed to be small and flexible. The expedition will be co-ordinated, organised and lead by us, but we will consult expedition members when planning the details of the trip. We publish an outline itinerary so that we have a framework on which to build the expedition.
Please note however that the leaders decision is final where the safety of the group or any member is in jeopardy; for example where retreat or diversion is necessary due to illness or bad weather.
EXPEDITION LEADER
At the time of printing the expedition leader is not known, please request further details nearer the time
EXPEDITION SIZE
The maximum size of this expedition will be eight persons plus leader. We need a minimum of four bookings to run this expedition. In some circumstances we may be able to run the expedition with just two members and a local leader.
FLIGHTS
Flights from the UK to Mexico City cost from about £600-£800 but are currently rising sharply. We can arrange these for you through our travel agents, Journey Latin America (ATOL 2828), at very competitive prices. We make no charge for this service and many customers find it convenient as we are then all booked to fly out on the same plane. If you prefer you can arrange your own flights to fit in with the expedition itinerary. Please note that if booking flights yourself it is better to pay only a deposit in the short term in case we do not have sufficient fully paid customers to run the expedition.
Orizaba from Piedra Grande
VISAS
Visas are not necessary for British citizens, but you should have a full passport valid for at least six months from the date of travel. Please tell us at the time of booking if you will not be travelling with a British passport.
INSURANCE
All clients must be insured for medical costs and repatriation in an emergency We recommend having insurance for baggage, personal liability and cancellation as well. If you would like advice on insurance please ask.
ACCOMMODATION
While staying in Mexico City and other towns we use clean and secure hotels, with hot showers and all the other comforts of home. It will be possible to leave extra luggage while we are in the mountains. There are huts on some of the mountains but these can be very busy so we may sometimes choose to camp. We supply modern lightweight tents and stoves but you'll need your own sleeping bag (for the huts too).
HEALTH AND HYGIENE
Although Mexico is one of the more prosperous countries in Latin America hygiene standards don't really reflect this. It is possible you may get an upset stomach or gut at some stage. To minimise the risk it is a good idea to avoid tap water, unwashed fruit, ice and all seafood. Vaccinations for tetanus, typhoid, polio and hepatitis are needed! Malaria and yellow fever precautions are not necessary as we won't be visiting mosquito infested areas.
High on Orizaba
SAFETY AND RISK
This is an adventure holiday and all clients will be exposed to an element of risk by taking part in this itinerary. While we take all reasonable precautions to reduce risk it is neither possible nor desirable to completely eliminate these additional risks. It is important that you understand the risks involved before signing our booking form. We have identified the following areas as the principal additional risks of this itinerary. This is not a fully inclusive list - please ask if you would like to see a more detailed risk assessment of this itinerary before booking.
Driving, hotels and general safety : In Mexico driving, fire safety standards and general safety standards are not as high as in Europe.
Crime : Mexico has a higher crime rate than Europe. As a wealthy tourist you may attract attention.
Minor slips and falls : due to steep, uneven and unstable ground.
Remoteness : You will be many hours from medical help for short periods of time.
Altitude : At high altitudes there is an increased risk of medical problems, most obviously altitude illness.
Mountain Hazards : In certain places you may be subjected to a slight risk of rock slips. In stormy weather there might be a slight risk of avalanche. There is also a slight risk from volcanic activity on the ascents.
SECURITY
Mexico is a relatively safe country to visit but it is important to stay alert when in busy public areas and to guard your belongings carefully. Muggings and other violent crime are very rare. We will issue further advice to all clients before departure. We have run countless expeditions to Latin America and we can quite confidently say that people are more likely to lose something than have it stolen!
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