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Mercedario Dossier 2009-2010

This expedition ran for the first time very successfully in January 2004.

For dates and prices please return to the Mercedario 'front page'

 

Summary

Mercedario is an excellent choice of peak for very fit people who want to climb an extremely high mountain without great technical difficulty and without the crowds that come to climb its big sister Aconcagua. You must be prepared for difficult living conditions while camping at altitude.

Outline Itinerary

Day 1-2 Flight via Buenos Aires to Mendoza
Day 3 In Mendoza
Day 4-10 Acclimatisation in the Cordon del Plata
Day 11 Rest in Mendoza
Day 12-20   Ascent of Mercedario
Day 21-22  Return home via Mendoza

INTRODUCTION TO THIS EXPEDITION

This expedition will be based in the Argentine provincial city of Mendoza. The main objective will be the seventh highest peak in the Andes, Mercedario 6700m. The mountain is a very much quieter peak than Aconcagua which lies about 80km further south. It is an easy ascent suitable for those without much previous experience and once acclimatised the ascent takes about ten days altogether. Mercedario is a mountain with an unusual history - it was climbed by the Incas over 500 years ago to make sacrifices and offerings. On the way up the mountain we pass a small ruin from the time of the Incas at 5200m and even at 6400m. From the summit of Mercedario there are superb views to Ramada, La Mesa and the other peaks in the Mercedario group as well as south to Aconcagua.

From Mendoza we will make a preliminary trip to the mountains of the Cordon del Plata for acclimatisation purposes. From a base camp at about 3500m we'll aim to make several ascents of several easy peaks, possibly climbing as high as 5000m.

This expedition offers a unique opportunity to climb a big and easy peak in a relatively quiet part of the Andes

Mercedario from just below the Guanaquitos base camp

Mercedario from just below the Guanaquitos base camp.

MERCEDARIO

Mercedario is the seventh highest mountain in the Andes, Argentina and South America. One of the least frequently climbed of the big peaks in the Andes, it lies entirely in Argentina but close to the Chilean frontier. The mountain has an impressive south face of snow and ice, but a gentler north slope. The mountain lies at the northwest end of a cirque of impressive peaks including two other 6000m peaks, La Mesa 6200m and Ramada 6410m. Mercedario experiences similar high winds and the same occasional periods of bad weather as its southern neighbour Aconcagua.

The normal route is on the northeast side of the mountain and though involving no climbing, is still a great challenge due to the altitude and areas of loose scree. In most years an axe and crampons are necessary for a safe ascent but previous experience of using these is not essential. There is a long approach trek up the Rio Blanco.

The first recorded ascent of the peak was by a Polish expedition in 1934. However the native Indians ascended many of the highest peaks of the southern Andes during the time of the Inca empire to make sacrifices and worship the sun and it is almost certain that they climbed Mercedario in the 15th or 16th century. There are ruined walls at over 5200m and even at 6400m on the normal route which are of Inca origin.

CORDON DEL PLATA

Before going to Mercedario we spend four nights in the Cordon del Plata, a range of lower peaks nearer to Mendoza. This mini expedition is a good chance to get to know each other, get a feel for the conditions and get some acclimatisation before the big trip into Mercedario. We drive to the Vallecitos ski resort at 3000m then walk up into the mountains usually camping at about 3500m. If expedition members are feeling fit and well acclimatised there will be a chance to climb one of the many smaller peaks in the range such as Pico Franke 5000m or Lomas Amarillas c.5200m.

Rincon from near the top of Pico Franke  in the Cordon del Plata

Rincon from near the top of Pico Franke  in the Cordon del Plata

 

BUENOS AIRES

Depending on flight schedules we may have time to see a little of Buenos Aires during the course of the expedition. Buenos Aires is the capital of Argentina and the third largest city in South America. In the centre of town and on the waterfront of the river there are pleasant parks and restaurants. There is also the usual assortment of art galleries, museums and presidential palaces.

The Obelisk in the centre of Buenos Aires

The Obelisk in the centre of Buenos Aires

MENDOZA AND BARREAL

Mendoza is a provincial city in the west of Argentina with over 1,000,000 inhabitants which we know well having run many expeditions to Aconcagua. It is situated in a very dry region in the rain shadow of the Andes and is an agricultural and wine producing area. It is one of Argentina's more prosperous cities, with many tree lined avenues, bustling pedestrian precincts and pavement cafes. It makes a very pleasant base for mountaineering activities.

Tom, Gordon, Ray, Barry and Tina on the summit of Mercedario,  Andes January 2004 expedition.

Tom, Gordon, Ray, Barry and Tina on the summit of Mercedario,  Andes January 2004 expedition.

CLIMATE

The climate at altitude in this part of the Andes is cold, windy and extremely dry. High on Mercedario temperatures can fall to -20?C at night. During the day it can feel very warm in the strong sun, but it can also be bitterly cold and windy, particularly on summit day. Temperatures in the lower valleys are usually a very pleasant 25-30ºC during the day, but cool at night. It will be very hot in Mendoza and Barreal (up to 35ºC) so don't forget to pack a T-shirt. It should be dry most of the time we are there, though there is a chance of a snow storm in the mountains.

FITNESS AND EXPERIENCE REQUIRED

Ascents to over 6000m require considerable fitness. Good hillwalking or mountaineering fitness is obviously important, but is not enough on its own. For high altitude expeditions clients particularly need good cardiopulmonary (heart and lung) fitness. This can only be maintained, or obtained, by a program of intensive exercise such as running, circuit training, squash or cycling. This should be done in small doses (e.g. half an hour every other day) over a period of at least three months before the expedition. If you don?t do this sort of exercise you are unlikely to get to the top - Mercedario will be a physically demanding expedition.

The normal route on Mercedario is on the whole an easy ascent route with few difficulties, suitable for those with extensive summer walking experience plus a little winter and/or Alpine walking experience. We may need to use an ice-axe and crampons for some short easy sections but previous experience of using these is not necessary.

HARDSHIPS

On this type of expedition there are inevitably some hardships which clients must be prepared to face in return for the great rewards of success climbing such a big mountain. Customers should be prepared for cold nights whilst camping and be prepared for very windy and dusty weather at times in the mountains. Customers must be able to carry their share of expedition equipment on their back above base camp. Weights carried will be about 20kg. As we'll be a long way from the nearest supermarket we will have to put up with tinned and/or dehydrated food in our diet during our time on the mountain. All customers are expected to assist occasionally with the routine work of this type of expedition; pitching tents, cooking and washing up.

Guanaco, Argentine Andes

Guanaco, Argentine Andes

WILDLIFE

Despite the fact that at first sight there is little to eat in the barren valleys of the High Andes the area is very good for seeing some of South Americas unusual wildlife, particularly on the lower approach slopes. Vicu? and guanaco are wild relatives of the llama and are seen frequently. The vizcacha, a species of South American rodent is also commonly seen hopping over rocks in the foothills. With a bit of luck we may even see a condor circling the peaks

FLIGHTS

Flights from London to Mendoza via Buenos Aires the Argentine capital cost from £800-£1000 at Christmas. We normally arrange these for customers through our travel agents, Journey Latin America (ATOL 2828) at very competitive prices. We make no charge for this service and many customers find it convenient as we then all fly on the same plane.

If you prefer you are welcome to arrange flights yourself. Please note that if booking flights yourself it is better to pay only a deposit in the short term in case we do not have sufficient fully paid customers to run the expedition.

VISAS

Visas are not necessary for British citizens, but you should have a full passport valid for at least six months from the date of travel. Other nationalities may need visas - please check with your local Argentine embassy.

INSURANCE

All clients must be insured for medical costs and repatriation. We recommend having insurance for baggage, cancellation and personal liability as well. If you would like advice on insurance please ask.

The high camp at 5800m on Mercedario

The high camp at 5800m on Mercedario.

HEALTH, HYGIENE AND SECURITY

Argentina is one of the more developed countries in South America and the standard of hygiene is generally as good as at home. You will be unlucky to get an upset stomach or diarrhoea. Vaccinations for tetanus, typhoid and polio are recommended. The country is very safe and relaxing to travel in; theft and muggings are almost certainly less likely than they are in any British city. Everyone who visits Argentina is overwhelmed by how much like a part of Europe the country is.

ACCOMMODATION

While we are staying in Mendoza and Barreal accommodation will be in a clean and secure hotel with private bathroom. We normally use a small hotel with a friendly atmosphere, rather than a big luxury hotel. If we have to stay in any more out of the way places we have to use whatever lodging is available; this is usually perfectly clean in Argentina. When out in the mountains we use modern lightweight tents (supplied by us) - you'll need a warm sleeping bag and karrimat or thermarest.

SAFETY AND RISK

This is an adventure holiday and all clients will be exposed to hazards not found in everyday life by taking part in this itinerary. While we take all reasonable precautions to reduce risk it is neither possible nor desirable to completely eliminate these additional hazards. Some of these hazards carry the risk of serious injury or death. It is important that you understand the risks you may be exposed to before signing our booking form. We have identified the following areas as the principal additional risks of this itinerary. This is not a fully inclusive list - please ask if you would like to see a more detailed risk assessment of this itinerary before booking.

Driving, hotels and general safety : In Argentina driving, fire standards and general safety standards are not as high as in Europe.

Remoteness : You will be camping in a remote area for an extended period and therefore obtaining medical assistance for any problem will be a slow process.

Minor slips and falls : due to steep, uneven and unstable ground.

Weather : Mercedario is occasionally affected by severe and sometimes dangerous storms. Forecasts are not so reliable.

Altitude : At high altitudes there is an increased risk of medical problems, most obviously altitude illness. Mountain Hazards : In certain places you may be subjected to a slight risk of rock slips. There are river crossings on this itinerary which could become serious. In stormy weather might be a slight risk of avalanche.

 

Climbing through penitente snow at 4800m, Mercedario

Climbing through penitente snow at 4800m, Mercedario

EXPEDITION ORGANISATION

Our expeditions fall somewhere between the large, rigidly organised expeditions of the larger companies and the frustrations, hassles and uncertainties of independent travel in an unfamiliar country. Our expeditions are designed to be small and flexible. The expedition will be co-ordinated, organised and led by us, but we'll consult and involve the expedition members when planning the details of the trip.

Please note however that the leaders decision is final where the safety of the group or any member is in jeopardy; for example where retreat or diversion is necessary due to illness or bad weather.

EXPEDITION LEADER

At the time of writing expedition leaders have not been finalised for the 2009-2010 season - please contact us nearer the time for details.

EXPEDITION SIZE

Normally the minimum number of customers we need to run this expedition is three. The maximum size of the expedition will be six customers plus leader and assistant. In some circumstances we may be able to run the expedition with just two members and a local leader.

PRE EXPEDITION MEETING

We will be running a social day for these expeditions when expedition members will be able to meet both their leader and other members. These are usually held in the English Lake District in October or November. We make no charge for these social days but you have to cover your own costs. Please ask for details if you are interested in this option

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