Alpamayo Dossier 2009
Technical mountaineering in the Cordillera Blanca of Peru
For dates and prices please return to the Alpamayo 'front page'
SummaryThis is a good expedition for those who want to climb a beautiful and technical peak in a spectacular mountain setting, plus experience the fascinating culture of Peru. |
Outline Itinerary |
|
| Day 1 | Flight to Lima |
| Day 2-4 | In and around Huaraz |
| Day 5-10 | Acclimatisation ascents. |
| Day 11 | Rest in Huaraz |
| Day 12-20 | Alpamayo ascent |
| Day 21-22 | Back to Lima and home |
INTRODUCTION TO THIS EXPEDITION
Alpamayo is in the north of the Cordillera Blanca in Peru and is a beautifully sculpted pyramid of snow and ice. It is a challenging climb for those with experience of winter or alpine climbing (ideally to Scottish grade III, or Alpine climbing to AD+). We climb the mountain by the Ferrari route on the SSW face on ice and snow up to 60º.
Our expeditions are based in the town of Huaraz situated at a height of 3100m at the foot of the mountains and we will make a short acclimatisation trip into the Cordillera Blanca before attempting the main objective of Alpamayo. There will be opportunities to do some trekking and/or to climb one or two lower or less technical peaks during this first phase of the expedition. The choice of venue each year will be made by our leader in Peru depending on current climbing conditions.
Please note that like all of our itineraries in the Cordillera Blanca this itinerary should be considered flexible and will divert to other peaks (of similar height and difficulty) if Alpamayo is in poor condition in 2009. In the past we have climbed the neighbouring peak of Quitaraju 6036m in these circumstances.
Our 2009 expedition will be scheduled so that the ascent of Alpamayo can be combined with a longer trip to Peru to attempt an ascent of Huascaran. The Alpamayo and Huascaran combined expedition will be a trip of 30 days.
For those who wish to see more of the cultural side of Peru we can extend this expedition to allow time for a short tour of the famous city of Cuzco and the spectacular ruins of the lost city of Machu Picchu either before or after this trip. For details and prices see our Cuzco and Machu Picchu extension page.
The highest peaks of the Cordillera Blanca including Huandoy and Huascaran, as seen from Anta airport near Huaraz.
HUARAZ
Huaraz is a friendly wee town of 100,000 people situated in the broad valley of the Callejon de Huaylas at an altitude of 3000m. It makes an excellent base for the expedition as it is high enough for a good start to be made on our acclimatisation without having to leave civilisation behind. The town is a spectacular eight hour drive from Lima. There are good hotels and restaurants where you can buy pizza, chicken or steak and chips and the local speciality, guinea pig. There are plenty of bars for those who want to try a bit of Peruvian beer!
THE CORDILLERA BLANCA
The Cordillera Blanca are a range of mountains containing 22 peaks over 6000m. They lie in the northern part of Peru, just south of the equator and 400km north of the capital Lima. They are separated from the Pacific Ocean by the snowless Cordillera Negra which rise to 'only' 5000m. Between the two ranges is a broad valley known as the Callejon de Huaylas containing Huaraz and several other large towns. Like most of the Andean ranges the Cordillera Blanca are relatively ylimbed in 1932 by a German expedition which also climbed Chopicalqui, Copoung mountains, being only seven million years old. The north peak of Huascaran was the first major peak to be climbed in the Cordillera Blanca. It was climbed in 1908 by Annie Peck and local guides. The south peak of Huascaran was climbed in 1932 by a German expedition which also climbed Chopicalqui, Copa, Artesonraju and Huandoy. The Germans returned in 1939 to climb most of the remaining 6000m peaks, though the last and most difficult, Chacraraju, was not climbed until 1956. The 1950's saw a great deal of activity in the range with many peaks climbed by new routes and all the major summits, including Alpamayo, being reached.
Descending from the summit of Alpamayo.
ALPAMAYO
Alpamayo 5947m, is known as the world's most beautiful mountains. Rather strangely its name when translated from the local Quechua language means 'Muddy River'. It is a superb but challenging peak, a fluted pyramid of snow and ice decorated with beautiful formations. It was first climbed by a German expedition in 1957 though earlier expeditions had reached lower summits. We'll climb by the Southwest face on a route known as the Ferrari route. This is about six pitches of steep ice above the bergschrund, approached from a high camp at 5500m. The descent is by abseil down the same line.
In recent years the hardest part of the climb has in fact been reaching the high camp at 5500m through a steep and chaotic icefall.
We have a good success record on Alpamayo, getting ten out of twelve clients to the top on our last three expeditions. For example in 2005 the mountain was too dangerous to attempt - all of our clients succeeded on the neighbouring peak of Quitaraju 6036m instead. Quitaraju is pictured below, as seen form high on Alpamayo.
HUASCARAN COMBINATION
Our 2009 expedition will be scheduled so that the ascent of Alpamayo can be combined with a longer trip to Peru to attempt an ascent of the highest peak Huascaran (for those who can travel for a really long time!). The Alpamayo and Huascaran combined expedition will give a trip of 30 days. Please see our Huascaran page for details of this peak.
CLIMATE
This time of year is the dry season in the Peruvian Andes and there are long periods of stable weather with fewer and less severe storms than the Alps have in a normal summer. There are sometimes high winds and light snow flurries. Temperatures at altitude are extremely cold, going down to -20ºC during the 12 hours of darkness each night, so bring a warm sleeping bag and a good book!
Steep climbing on summit day. The high camp can be seen up and slightly left of the climbers head.
FITNESS EXPERIENCE REQUIRED
Ascents to 6000m require considerable fitness. Good hillwalking/mountaineering fitness is obviously important, but is not enough on its own. For high altitude expeditions clients particularly need good cardiopulmonary (heart and lung) fitness. This can only be maintained, or obtained, by a program of intensive exercise such as sprinting, circuit training, squash or sprint cycling. This should be done in small doses (e.g. half an hour every other day) over a period of at least three months. If you don?t do this sort of exercise you are unlikely to get to the summit.
For Alpamayo clients must be experienced winter climbers, comfortable on at least Scottish grade III and preferably having led routes up to Grade II. Similar Alpine experience (several snow and ice climbs to AD grade) is equally acceptable.
HARDSHIPS
On this type of expedition there are inevitably some hardships which clients must be prepared to put up with in return for the great rewards of success on such a difficult peak. Cold nights, early starts and dehydrated food are a few of the experiences which will have to be enjoyed. We make use of porters and/or donkeys where possible but clients will have to carry a heavy expedition sack at times (20kg) above base camps (particularly in descent).
FLIGHTS
Flights from London to Lima the Peruvian capital cost from about £700-£900 but are currently rising sharply. We normally arrange these for you through our travel agents, Journey Latin America (ATOL 2828), who have very competitive prices. We make no charge for this service and many customers find it convenient as it means we are all on the same flight out to South America. If you prefer you can arrange your own flights to fit in with the expedition itinerary. Please note that if booking flights yourself it is better to pay only a deposit in the short term in case we do not have sufficient fully paid customers to run the expedition.
The summit of Alpamayo on a perfect day.
VISAS
Visas are not necessary for British citizens, but you should have a full passport valid for at least six months from the date of travel. You must let us know at the time of booking if you will not be travelling on a British passport as you may need a visa.
HEALTH AND HYGIENE
Peru is one of the poorest countries in South America and hygiene standards reflect this. Even with a bit of caution you may get an upset stomach at some stage. It is a good idea to avoid tap water, unwashed fruit, ice, seafood and all food sold by street vendors. Vaccinations for tetanus, typhoid, polio and hepatitis are needed! Your doctor may also recommend rabies and diphtheria injections. Malaria and yellow fever precautions are not necessary as we won't be visiting mosquito infested areas
SECURITY
Peru suffers from a reputation for theft and insurance is a necessity. It has to be said that thieves steal from easy targets; most tales of theft involve the victim doing something unwise. It is important to stay alert when in busy public areas and to guard your belongings carefully at all times. Muggings and other violent crime are very rare. We will issue further advice to all clients before departure.
SAFETY AND RISK
This is an adventure holiday and all clients will be exposed to an element of risk by taking part in this itinerary. While we take all reasonable precautions to reduce risk it is neither possible nor desirable to completely eliminate these additional risks. It is important that you understand the risks involved before signing our booking form. We have identified the following areas as the principal additional risks of this itinerary. This is not a fully inclusive list - please ask if you would like to see a more detailed risk assessment of this itinerary before booking.
Crime : Peru has a higher crime rate than Europe. As a wealthy tourist you may attract attention.
Driving, hotels and general safety : In Peru driving, health, fire safety standards and general safety standards are not as high as in Europe.
Remoteness : You will be several days from professional medical help for much of the time.
Minor slips and falls : due to steep, uneven and unstable ground.
Weather : The mountains are occasionally affected by cloudy weather making navigation and possibly descent, difficult. Forecasts are not reliable.
Mountain Hazards : On all the peaks there is a significant risk of avalanche and crevasse falls. In certain places you may be subjected to a slight risk of rockfall. Most of the peaks also involve technical climbing and therefore the usual hazards associated with climbing and abseiling.
Altitude : At high altitudes there is an increased risk of medical problems, most obviously altitude illness. On this expedition this is more serious because it may not be possible to descend in bad weather, poor conditions, or at night.
INSURANCE
All clients must be insured for medical costs and repatriation in an emergency. We recommend having insurance for baggage, personal liability and cancellation as well.
ACCOMMODATION
While we're in Huaraz we use a clean and secure hotel, with hot showers and all the other comforts of home. It will be possible to leave extra luggage and clean clothes here whenever we go off to the mountains. We will be camping when we are out in the mountains; modern lightweight tents and stoves are provided by us, but you'll need your own four season sleeping bag and mat.
Hotel Colomba, Huaraz.
EXPEDITION LEADER
At the time of printing we have not finalised leaders for this expedition. Please phone for latest information. We use a one to two guide ratio on Alpamayo. All of our expeditions are normally led by a suitably qualified and/or experienced European (normally British) leader.
Another shot of the SW face of Alpamayo. This one was from our first expedition to the mountain in 1996.
EXPEDITION SIZE
The minimum number of customers we need to run the expedition is three. The maximum size of the expedition will be six customers plus lead and assistant guides. In some circumstances we may be able to run the expedition with just two members and a local leader.
EXPEDITION ORGANISATION
Our expeditions are designed to be small and flexible. The expedition will be co-ordinated, organised and lead by us, but we will consult and involve you when planning the details of the expedition. Please note however that the leaders decision is final where the safety of the group or any member is in jeopardy; for example where retreat or diversion is necessary due to illness or bad weather.
PRE EXPEDITION WEEKEND
We will run a social and training weekend for this expedition, probably in the Cairngorms in early 2009, if there are enough clients interested. Expedition members are normally able to meet both their leader and other members. We will make only a small charge for this weekend. Please ask for details and register your interest.
Please note that like all of our itineraries in the Cordillera Blanca this itinerary should be considered flexible and will divert to other peaks (of similar height and difficulty) if those we plan to climb are in poor or dangerous condition. e.g. in 2006 Huascaran was a very dangerous mountain and was 'officially' closed most of the season, in 2003 and 2005 it was the turn of Alpamayo to be 'officially shut' after an accident.
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