Aconcagua Dossier 2010-11
Mountaineering in Argentina
For dates and prices please return to the Aconcagua 'front page'
NOTE - Please don't compare our Aconcagua trips directly with cheaper but inferior alternatives.
Our price is higher than some other operators, but you get more in return.
1. We include the price of you climbing permit (which can cost up to £400 per person!).
2. We visit another mountain area first. This makes your expedition much more interesting and increases your acclimatisation, but it also costs a wee bit more
3. We travel by the more scenic but longer and more costly Vacas valley route. Our 2010-11 expeditions are all 26 days long.
4. We include a Polish glacier option free of charge if we have sufficient numbers.
5. Our maximum guide to client ratio is 1:3. This makes a big difference to your chance of summit success, but employing good quality guides at low client ratios is not cheap...
SummaryAconcagua is an excellent choice of peak for very fit people who want to climb an extremely high mountain without great technical difficulty. You must be prepared for difficult living conditions while camping at altitude. Our Polish glacier option gives a fine and slightly more challenging ascent route. |
Crossing the Relinchos river on the way to Aconcagua.
ACONCAGUA
At 6959m Aconcagua is the highest mountain in the Andes and the highest in South America. One of the most spectacular peaks in the Andes, it lies entirely in Argentina but close to the Chilean frontier. Aconcagua has a huge and impressive south face and towers above the surrounding mountains. It has a reputation for high winds and bad weather. We've had very mixed weather over the five years we've been there but overall our record is second to none.
The normal route is on the north slopes of the mountain and although there is no climbing it is still a great challenge due to the altitude and loose scree in the 'Canaleta' below the summit. In many years an ice-axe and crampons are also necessary for a safe ascent - previous experience of using these is recommended but is not essential.
Aconcagua has two summits, the first recorded ascent of the higher northern summit was by Zurbriggen in 1897. However the native Indians climbed many of the high peaks of the southern Andes during the time of the Inca empire to make sacrifices and worship the sun and it is very likely they climbed Aconcagua in the 15th or 16th century. In 1950 the remains of a guanaco were found at over 6500m and even more recently the desiccated remains of a boy who was sacrificed were found high on the slopes of the mountain.
Outline Itinerary |
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Day 1-2 |
Flight via Buenos Aires to Mendoza |
| Day 3 | In Mendoza |
| Day 4-8 | Cordon del Plata |
| Day 9 | Rest in Mendoza |
| Day 10-12 | Trek to Plaza Argentina base camp |
| Day 13-22 | Ascent of Aconcagua (6959m) |
| Day 23-24 | Trek out to Punta de Vacas |
| Day 25-26 | Return to Mendoza and home |
The Polish glacier seen form above high camp, January 2008.
For those with a bit more experience we are offering an alternative summit day via the more difficult and much quieter Polish Glacier route. The route is challenging but not normally technically difficult, though as with all glacier routes conditions vary from year to year. We will descend the normal route after ascending by the Polish Glacier. The route was first climbed in 1934 by a Polish expedition. Please note that we need a minimum of four customers to be able to guarantee to offer a choice of summit days with different guides. Please note also that there are various circumstances where the Polish Glacier is not a good ascent option but the normal route is still climbable, including days of high wind, when conditions are very icy, or after recent heavy snowfall.
CORDON DEL PLATA
Before going to Aconcagua we spend four nights in the Cordon del Plata, a range of lower peaks nearer to Mendoza. This mini expedition is a good chance to get to know each other, get a feel for the conditions and get some acclimatisation before the big trip into Aconcagua. We drive to the Vallecitos ski resort at 3000m then walk up into the mountains usually camping at about 3500m. If expedition members are feeling fit and well acclimatised there will be a chance to climb one of the many smaller peaks in the range such as Pico Franke 4850m or Lomas Amarillas c.5050m.
Lomas Amarillas and Vallecitos seen from just below camp in the Cordon del Plata.
MENDOZA
We always have time to see some of the city of Mendoza during the course of the expedition. Mendoza is a major provincial city in the west of Argentina with over a million inhabitants. It is situated in a very dry region in the rain shadow of the Andes and is the centre of Argentina's wine industry. It is one of Argentina's most beautiful and prosperous cities, with many tree lined avenues, beautiful tiled plazas and a good choice of steak restaurants and pavement cafes. Time spent in Mendoza is a highlight for nearly all of our customers, perhaps because the temperature can reach 35ºC in January!
Depending on flight schedules we may have part of a day in either Santiago, the Chilean capital or Buenos Aires, the Argentine capital. We can also arrange a one or two night extension in either city for any clients who want to be sure to see these pleasant cities.
Plaza Independencia, opposite our hotel in Mendoza.
CLIMATE
The climate at altitude in the Andes is cold, windy and extremely dry. High on Aconcagua temperatures can fall to -20ºC at night. During the day it can feel very warm in the strong sun, but it can also be bitterly cold and windy. Temperatures in the Vacas and Relinchos valley are usually a very pleasant 25-30ºC during the day, but cool at night. It will be very hot in Mendoza (up to 35ºC) so don't forget to pack a T-shirt. It should be dry most of the time we are there, though there is a chance of a snow storm in the mountains.
THE DIFFERENCES
What we offer is different from the package ascents of the normal route offered by most other companies. Our expeditions are 26 days long, giving you more chance to acclimatise and therefore more chance of reaching the summit. The extra 3 or 4 days we include can make a huge difference to your chances of success. Don't be fooled by shorter, cheaper expeditions......
Our ascents are 'alpine' in style. We get some acclimatisation with our short trip to the Cordon del Plata, then climb Aconcagua making steady progress upwards with minimal load carrying. Many people still use "siege" tactics on Aconcagua, which involves a lot of time sitting at an unpleasant base camp, then repeated ascending and descending on the same route to establish high camps. We believe our approach is not only better for you physically, but also much more interesting. In the last years our Aconcagua trips have had impressive summit success rates, almost always better than other teams on the mountain at the same time.
Our party will be small, with a maximum of six clients plus western leader and local assistant guide. We use mules to help us transport extra food and climbing gear to base camp (and rubbish back out) but otherwise we will be a small group on the mountain. This lightweight approach has less impact on sensitive mountain areas.
We have a better client to guide ratio than any of our competitors, with no more than three clients per guide on Aconcagua summit days. This dramatically improves your chances of making it to the summit.
Looking down the lower half of the canaleta in very cold conditions, January 2008
FITNESS AND EXPERIENCE REQUIRED
Ascents to over 6000m require considerable fitness. Good hillwalking/mountaineering fitness is obviously important, but is not enough on its own. For high altitude expeditions clients particularly need good cardiopulmonary (heart and lung) fitness. This can only be maintained, or obtained, by a program of intensive exercise such as running, circuit training, squash or cycling. This should be done in small doses (e.g. half an hour every other day) over a period of at least three months before the expedition. If you don't do this sort of exercise you are unlikely to get to the top - Aconcagua is the most physically demanding expedition that we run.
Though longer than the busy 'normal' route, the eastern route on Aconcagua is on the whole an easy ascent route with few difficulties, suitable for those with some winter and/or Alpine walking experience. For the Polish Glacier option some previous winter or Alpine climbing experience is recommended.
HARDSHIPS
On this type of expedition there are inevitably some hardships which clients must be prepared to face in return for the great rewards of success climbing such a big mountain. Customers should be prepared for cold nights whilst camping and be prepared for very windy and dusty weather at times in the mountains. Customers must be able to carry their share of expedition equipment on their back above base camp. Weights carried will be up to 20kg. As we'll be a long way from the nearest supermarket we will have to put up with tinned and/or dehydrated food in our diet during our time on the mountain. All customers are expected to assist occasionally with the routine work of this type of expedition; pitching tents, cooking and washing up.
BASE CAMP SERVICES
Main meals at "restaurant" style tents at base camp are not included in our price. We do provide enough food to cook and eat at base camp and normally do our own breakfasts, but in the colder and usually windier conditions prevalent in the evenings we normally retreat to one of the cafe style tents to eat pizza and chips.! Other optional services available at base camp not included in our price are beers, coca-colas etc., satellite phone calls, internet access and primitive camp-style showers.
Standing in the sun at 6500m after five long cold hours in the darkness, 2008
FLIGHTS
Flights from the UK to Mendoza cost from about £800. We normally arrange these for customers through our travel agents, Journey Latin America (ATOL 2828) at very competitive prices. We make no charge for this service and many customers find it convenient as we then all fly on the same plane. If you prefer you can arrange your own flights to fit in with the expedition itinerary. Please note that if booking flights yourself it is better to pay only a deposit in the short term in case we do not have sufficient fully paid customers to run the expedition.
VISAS
Visas are not necessary for US and British citizens, but you should have a full passport valid for at least six months from the date of travel. Other nationalities may need visas - please check with your local Argentine embassy.
Aconcagua from the Casa de Piedra campsite to the east, 2001
SAFETY AND RISK
This is an adventure holiday and all clients will be exposed to an element of risk by taking part in this itinerary. While we take all reasonable precautions to reduce risk it is neither possible nor desirable to completely eliminate these additional risks. It is important that you understand the risks involved before signing our booking form. We have identified the following areas as the principal additional risks of this itinerary. This is not a fully inclusive list - please ask if you would like to see a more detailed risk assessment of this itinerary before booking.
Driving, hotels and general safety : In Argentina driving, fire safety standards and general safety standards are not as high as in Europe.
Remoteness : You will be camping in a remote area for an extended period and therefore obtaining medical assistance for any problem will be a slow process.
Minor slips and falls : due to steep, uneven and unstable ground.
Weather : Aconcagua is occasionally affected by severe and sometimes dangerous storms. Forecasts are not so reliable. It can be extremely cold and windy on summit days, and there is a significant frostbite risk.
Altitude : At high altitudes there is an increased risk of medical problems, most obviously altitude illness.
Mountain Hazards : In certain places you may be subjected to a slight risk of rock slips. There are river crossings on this itinerary which could become serious. In stormy weather might be a slight risk of avalanche. Additionally on the Polish glacier route there are potential hazards from avalanche and crevasse falls.
Climbing up to camp two in snowy conditions, 2001
INSURANCE
All clients must be insured for medical costs and repatriation. We recommend having insurance for cancellation, baggage and personal liability as well. If you would like advice on insurance please ask.
HEALTH, HYGIENE AND SECURITY
Argentina is one of the more developed countries in South America and the standard of hygiene is generally as good as at home. You'd be unlucky to get an upset stomach or diarrhoea. Vaccinations for tetanus, typhoid and polio are recommended. The country is very safe and relaxing to travel in; theft and muggings are almost certainly less likely than they are in any British city. Everyone who visits Argentina is overwhelmed by how much like a part of Europe the country is.
ACCOMMODATION
While we are staying in Mendoza accommodation will be in a clean and secure hotel with private bathroom. We normally use a small centrally located hotel with a friendly atmosphere, rather than a big luxury hotel. When out in the mountains we use modern lightweight tents (supplied by us) - you'll need a warm sleeping bag and karrimat or thermarest.
High camp on Aconcagua at 5900m in February 2009.
EXPEDITION ORGANISATION
Our expeditions fall somewhere between the large, rigidly organised expeditions of the larger companies and the frustrations, hassles and uncertainties of independent travel in an unfamiliar country. Our expeditions are designed to be small and flexible. The expedition will be co-ordinated, organised and led by us, but we'll consult and involve the expedition members when planning the details of the trip. Please note however that the leaders decision is final where the safety of the group or any member is in jeopardy; for example where retreat or diversion is necessary due to illness or bad weather.
EXPEDITION LEADERS
At the time of writing expedition leaders have not been finalised for the 2010-11 season - please contact us nearer the time for details.
Aconcagua summit February 2001
EXPEDITION SIZE
Normally the minimum number of customers we need to run each of these Aconcagua expeditions is three. The maximum size of each expedition will be six customers plus leader and assistant. In some circumstances we may be able to run the expedition with just two members and a local leader.
PRE EXPEDITION MEETING
We will be running a social day for these expeditions when expedition members will be able to meet both their leader and other members. These are usually held in the English Lake District in October or November 2010. We make no charge for these social days but you have to cover your own costs. Please ask for details if you are interested in this option.
A WARNING
Aconcagua is a popular choice as a first 6000m peak. However most of our other expeditions (particularly those to Peru and Bolivia) are more suitable if you have not climbed in the Andes or Himalayas before. Though the ascent is just a "walk" for experienced mountaineers every year we see less experienced people struggle with the combination of difficult terrain, seriously cold conditions and the extreme altitude. Aconcagua is physically and psychologically the toughest expedition we run because of frequent bad weather and the extended period of wilderness camping.
Before booking on Aconcagua we recommend that you have experience of at least three of the following four items:-
1. Previous ascent to over 6000m
2. Recent experience of extended wilderness camping and/or camping in cold winter conditions
3. Recent backpacking experience
4. Good skills walking on scree and loose ground
If you have none of these previous experiences you are very unlikely to make it to the summit and you should not book any Aconcagua trip until you gain more experience. Our expeditions are no more demanding than others, Aconcagua is just a very tough mountain.
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